2011 was a year full of adventures for me, both big and small. One of the larger adventures was my lengthy stay in Peru. I studied abroad there for three months, studying archaeological field work and history. While I had many life changing experiences during my program, it was not until I began exploring on my own that I found pieces of excitement that I didn't expect. During a break from our archaeological studies, a small group of us travelled on our own to the mountain town of Cajamarca for a week.
Cajamarca is famous for its dairy, so for cheese lovers like me the food itself is an adventure. I do not exaggerate when I say the swiss cheese was probably the best thing I've ever eaten. The outskirts of the city are pretty much solid dairy farms, which are very pretty. This city was also where the conquistadors ransomed and murdered the last Inca emperor, Atahualpa.
In order to arrive in Cajamarca we took a 7 hour bus ride from the coastal city of Trujillo, where we had been staying. I suggest using the Linea bus line, our trip with the company was very easy, but be sure to keep some change and toilet paper with you for the rest stop. If I remember correctly the round trip ticket was around $40.
We arrived in Cajamarca and explored the Plaza de Armas where we found a wonderful restaurant, Salas. The menu was a bit pricey compared to other places, but for four people to eat probably cost about $50. The food was delicious, especially the duck.
In order to save money we stayed in the small town of Baños del Inca, an eight minute taxi ride from downtown Cajamarca. The town is the home of thermal baths that were once the vacation spot of the Inka rulers. The hostel (I believe it was the only one in that area) is just behind the baths themselves.
The price was very reasonable, about $30 a night, for one of the most comfortable beds I have slept in. The rooms are sparse, be sure to bring your own towels, etc., and the beds are bunked. But for four people they gave us 3 bunk beds and we were very comfortable. It was pretty cold in the morning and at night, but the showers are heated by the thermal water used in the Baños, so they'll warm you right up. Be sure to look for the handle you must turn to get the hot water to flow.
We spent three nights in this hostel. Keep in mind that restaurant selection at night is limited, although there was a delicious pizza restaurant that stayed open. Peruvians typically eat large lunches and snacks or nothing for dinner. You could go into Cajamarca for dinner as well if you don't mind the taxi ride.
In the morning there are numerous cafes open for breakfast and lunch right outside of the hostel. Don't be skeptical of their appearance, the food is delicious and the prices are choice. Try the cheese or fried egg sandwiches!
Our first full day in the area we spent in the Baños. They have many different options for bath times, massages, and bath types. For about $12 I had a private thermal bath for a half hour and a half hour full body massage. It was wonderful and very relaxing. Between the baths and the scenery, I don't think I've ever felt so clean. Again, bring your towels. Funny note: during the massage they played a CD of Aerosmith, Total Eclipse of the Heart, and other 80s tunes all done in wind pipes.
The next day we were a bit unsure of what else we could do in the villages, so we trekked to an archaeological site called las Ventanillas de Otuzco.
The Ventanillas are supposedly tombs of Incan nobility, sealed up individually to create a honeycomb looking mass. Weren't sure of where we were going, but one of the men at the desk in our hostel explained that a taxi ride would be very expensive and gave us directions for the walk instead. Be sure that you are very clear on your directions if you choose to go. The location is quite remote, and you must walk along the river past many private farms, homes, and a very small, sort of run down village in order to reach the site. But the walk is beautiful. We saw so much more green than we had anywhere else, since we had spent so much time in the desert. It took us an hour and a half to get there, and we spent about 2 hours at the site. Keep some change on you in order the get in.
The site is not very big, but it is beautiful. There is a small walk up an incline before you reach the "windows" themselves. There is a farm attached to the site and the people there will try to speak to you. The view from the site is spectacular, overlooking miles of dairy farms. We relaxed in the sun, soaking in the mountains. This was one of the most peaceful places we visited the entire trip.
The trek itself will teach you so much about Peruvian lifestyle. In big cities it is easy to forget that Peru is a developing country that lacks much of what seems common, at least to me. The dairies we passed definitely lacked farm technology often used in the U.S. If you want a little perspective I highly suggest this trip. And setting off with little idea of what we were getting into made the trip even more exciting and rewarding.
Another pointer: be sure you or someone you are with is fairly comfortable with Spanish, you'll want to be sure you can be fully aware of where you are going/doing. In this region Quechua is also a prominent language, often used more than Spanish. So if people are baffled by your Spanish don't be surprised, just do the best you can, or try somewhere else to find the information you need. Don't bank on being able to find someone who speaks English, it might not be as easy as you think!
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